How to Alter a Pattern with a Back Yoke

Embarking on a sewing project can be an exciting journey, but sometimes the patterns we find may not fit our body type or personal style perfectly. One common alteration that many sewists encounter is adjusting a pattern with a back yoke. A back yoke is a piece of fabric that is added to the back of a garment, often seen in blouses, dresses, and jackets. It can add a touch of elegance and sophistication to your outfit. In this article, we will guide you through the process of how to alter a pattern with a back yoke, ensuring that your final garment fits you like a glove.

Understanding the Back Yoke

Before diving into the alteration process, it’s essential to understand the basic structure of a back yoke. A back yoke is typically made up of two main pieces: the yoke itself and the facing. The yoke is the main part that sits on the back of the garment, while the facing is used to finish the edges and provide a clean finish. Knowing how these pieces fit together will help you make accurate alterations.

Step 1: Assess the Pattern

The first step in altering a pattern with a back yoke is to assess the original pattern. Check for any existing notches, darts, or gathers that may need to be adjusted. Pay attention to the grainline and ensure that it aligns with the pattern markings. This will help you maintain the integrity of the garment’s design.

Step 2: Measure Your Body

To create a custom fit, you’ll need to measure your body. Take measurements of your bust, waist, hip, and shoulder width. Compare these measurements to the pattern’s size chart to determine the appropriate size. Keep in mind that you may need to add ease or make other adjustments based on your body type.

Step 3: Adjust the Yoke

Once you have your measurements, it’s time to adjust the yoke. If you need to add width, draw a new yoke line that is wider than the original. If you need to narrow the yoke, simply draw a new line that is narrower. Ensure that the new yoke line still aligns with the grainline and pattern markings.

Step 4: Adjust the Facing

Next, adjust the facing piece. If you’re adding width to the yoke, extend the facing accordingly. If you’re narrowing the yoke, reduce the facing width. Remember to maintain the grainline alignment and pattern markings.

Step 5: Redraw the Pattern

Using your adjusted yoke and facing lines, redraw the pattern pieces. Make sure to add any necessary notches, darts, or gathers. Transfer these markings to the new pattern pieces.

Step 6: Cut and Sew

With your new pattern pieces ready, cut out the fabric and follow the sewing instructions. Pay close attention to the grainline and pattern markings to ensure a proper fit.

Conclusion

Altering a pattern with a back yoke can be a challenging but rewarding task. By following these steps, you can create a custom-fitted garment that flatters your body and showcases your personal style. Remember to take your time, measure accurately, and pay attention to the details. With practice, you’ll become a master at altering patterns and creating beautiful, bespoke garments.